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Hidden within the rugged ridge-lines and wild plateaus of the Drakensberg Mountains, the Pillar Cave hike takes you to one of South Africa’s most fascinating natural shelters. This remote cave, framed by dramatic sandstone columns, offers more than just the experience of sleeping in cave in South Africa. Here you’ll discover ancient history, thriving mountain ecosystems, and one of the clearest night skies you’ll ever see.
The Rich History of the Drakensberg
The Drakensberg mountain range is the highest in southern Africa, with peaks reaching over 3,000 meters (10,000 feet). The “Dragon Mountains” in Afrikaans and known to the Zulu as uKhahlamba, meaning “Barrier of Spears,” the range has long stood as both a physical and symbolic boundary between nations, cultures, and even eras.
The area is especially significant for its San rock art, which is considered to be the oldest rock art in the world. These paintings, found in caves and rock shelters like Pillar Cave, are estimated to be between 2,000 and 5,000 years old.
The San, or Bushmen, were the first inhabitants of southern Africa, and their art reveals a deep spiritual connection to the land. Scenes depicting animals, hunting, trance dances, and the celestial bodies have all been discovered to date.
Where is Pillar Cave, Drakensberg Mountains?
If you’re planning South Africa hiking adventures, this one should definitely be on your radar. Pillar Cave sits within the Garden Castle Nature Reserve in KwaZulu-Natal.
The Drakensberg Mountain location is pretty special as it’s in the southern section of the massive Ukhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, which a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This part of the Drakensberg Mountain range is less crowded than the northern areas, making it perfect for a peaceful 2-day hike in the Drakensbergs.
➤ Hike Pillar Cave from Major Cities
From Johannesburg, you’re looking at roughly 580 km (360 mi), which is about 7 hours of driving time. It’s a fair drive, but honestly, the scenery gets more spectacular as you head south toward this renowned South Africa hiking destination, so you get to witness the stunning countryside while en-route.
Coming from Durban? You’ve got it much easier at around 210 km (130 mi). This should take roughly 3 hours by car. Again, you’ll pass stunning countryside along the way!
➤ Nearest Town: Underberg
The nearest town is Underberg, which sits about 28 km (17 mi) from Garden Castle Nature Reserve. We suggest you fuel up and stock up here on any last minute things you need before hiking the Drakensberg Mountains.
It’s a small town that serves as the gateway to the southern Drakensberg Mountains, and you’ll find a few decent shops and restaurants. Many people doing the Pillar Cave hike use Underberg as their overnight stop before hitting the trail (although we opted to camp at the entrance to the Garden Castle Nature Reserve instead – more on that below).
➤ Getting to Garden Castle Nature Reserve
Here’s where it gets a little quirky. From Underberg travel north on R617, then take the MR317 district road (also known as P317 or Drakensberg Gardens Road) toward Drakensberg Gardens This turn-off is about 5 km (3 mi) after Underberg.
You’ll actually drive through the Gooderson Drakensberg Gardens Golf and Spa Resort entrance gate. If stopped by security, just let them know you’re heading to the nature reserve then they’ll give you a free pass to drive straight through. Keep on a few more kilometres until you reach Garden Castle.
Park Permits and Fees
The camping fee was around R80 per person per night, and you’ll need an overnight hiking permit, which was about R40. There’s an extra charge if you plan to stay in any of the area’s mountain huts.
Pro Tip
The office sometimes closes around 3:30-4:00 PM, so don’t roll in at sunset expecting to check in. It’s best to start the hike with enough daylight to make it to Pillar Cave before dark, so if you’re running late, plan to spend a night at the base camp first.
Base Camp
After we drove all the way from Johannesburg, we spent a night at Hermit’s Wood Campsite (located near the entry of Garden Castle Nature Reserve) then made our way to Pillar Cave the next day.
There are around 10 campsites below tall gum trees that have views of Rhino Peak and look out on Garden Castle Nature Reserve. It’s rustic, but has everything you need, including a braai (BBQ) area, communal gas freezer, two toilets, and two gas-powered showers.
In front of the campsite runs the pebbled Mlambonja River where you can walk to Mermaid’s Pool. Be aware the river becomes fast flowing in the narrow sections between the rocks, but it has also helped to form cool gorges and plunge pools.
You can also use this base camp to tackle the following hiking trails:
- The Rhino – 20 km (12 mi) round trip and +/- 10 hours (challenging with extreme grade)
- Hidden Valley – 18 km (11 mi) round trip and +/- 6 hours (moderate grade)
- Sleeping Beauty Cave – 8 km (5 mi) round trip and +/- 5 hours (fair grade with moderate steeper sections)
Hiking to Pillar Cave
Starting in Garden Castle Nature Reserve, the first section follows a gentle incline along a well-maintained path that traces the Mlambonja River. There are a few river crossings along the way and, in summer, small pools are known to form.
In winter, the river levels drop leaving behind smooth stones on the riverbed. We did our hike to Pillar Cave in South Africa’s fall (May) and found that the river crossings were already fairly dry. It rained on and off, but was still very pleasant.
For about an hour, the trail winds across the valley floor and through sweeping grasslands. As the path begins to curve toward the sandstone escarpment, the gradient increases slightly, and the towering formations of the Pillar gradually come into view.
The final ascent to the cave is steeper and narrows into a more rugged track. Once we reached the mouth of Pillar Cave, we were treated to a stunning panoramic view of the valley below.
Guided Hike
Prefer to hike with a guide?
DrakensbergHiker offers a range of guided routes, including the Pillar Cave hike.
Trail Snapshot:
Distance: +/- 4 km (2.5 mi) each way
Elevation Gain: 340 m (1115 ft)
Time: 2-3 hours each way
Difficulty: Moderate
Best Seasons: Spring (Sep–Nov) and Fall (Mar–May). We visited during fall and it was amazing
Sleeping in Pillar Cave
Spending the night in Pillar Cave is one of the most memorable aspects of this journey. The overhang provides a natural shelter from wind and rain, and the raised location offers spectacular views of the valley below.
After setting up camp for the night, we warmed up some stew using a rocket burner and headlight. As it got dark, a deep fog set in and the Chacma baboons started vocalizing.
We had hoped to do some star gazing, but it didn’t seem like it was going to happen. Not long after; however, the sky opened up for a short time. It was a truly amazing sight! Eventually, it clouded over again and rained hard for much of the night.
When we woke the next day, the magnificent panoramic vistas from the cave were outstanding. The surrounding mountains and Rhino Peak were in full view, and you could see the light dusting of snow that fell on Mashai Pass.
Sleep quality? Not great, we’ll be honest. Our minimal sleeping mats made for one of the most uncomfortable nights we’ve spent in the outdoors.
A proper self-inflating air mattress would’ve transformed the experience, but we weren’t that prepared. Even so, the magic of sleeping in this ancient cave made every sore muscle worth it and we’d go back tomorrow with the same terrible mats if that’s all we had.
The whole experience was truly amazing and we hope you’ll put it on your must-do list if visiting South Africa!
Wildlife of Garden Castle Nature Reserve
The Drakensberg mountain range is teeming with biodiversity and as you make your way to Pillar Cave, keep your eyes peeled for some of the mountain’s most notable wildlife:
Mammals:
- Eland – Africa’s largest antelope, often seen grazing in the valleys
- Mountain reedbuck – Shy and agile antelope found at higher altitudes
- Grey rhebok – Another nimble antelope, adapted to steep terrain
- Chacma baboons – Common near forested areas
- Cape clawless otter – Occasionally seen near rivers and streams
- Porcupines, mongooses, and jackals – Nocturnal visitors near caves
Birds:
- Bearded vulture (lammergeier) – Rare and majestic; look for them soaring above cliffs
- Cape vulture – A threatened species that nests in the region
- Drakensberg rockjumper – Endemic to these high mountains
- Malachite sunbird, jackal buzzards, and spotted eagle-owls
We didn’t see much for wildlife on the hike to Pillar Cave, but on the way back we saw a few eland and a large family of baboons.
The baboons clearly saw us as intruders. From the opposite riverbank, the entire troop (guarded by several imposing male sentinels) followed our every move for nearly 2 km, shadowing us almost all the way back to the trailhead. Their eerie warning calls echoed through the valley, a constant reminder we were in their territory.
In addition to the biodiversity, the mountain range almost feels like it’s from another world… Think Lord of the Rings type vibes!
What to Pack
Day Trip
Overnight
Stargazing in The Drakensberg Mountains
Far from city lights, the Drakensberg Mountains location offers pristine night skies, making Pillar Cave a perfect spot for stargazing. On clear nights, the Milky Way stretches vividly overhead, and you may also spy:
- The Southern Cross (Crux)
- Orion’s Belt (seasonal)
- Scorpius and Sagittarius
- Planets, including Jupiter and Saturn (time of year dependant)
- Meteor showers, including Perseids and Geminids
Just lay back and watch the cosmos rotate above the jagged silhouette of the Dragon Mountains.
Responsible Travel Tips
Because of the cave’s ecological and cultural importance, it’s crucial to tread lightly.
- Don’t touch or deface rock art
- No campfires — use gas stoves only
- Leave no trace by packing out everything you bring in (and leave it better than you found it when the situation arises)
- Stick to trails to prevent erosion
- Respect local guidelines and obtain the required permits
Final Thoughts
The Drakensberg Mountain’s Pillar Cave isn’t just a scenic overnight stop, it’s a gateway into South Africa’s ancient past, a haven for biodiversity, and a spiritual retreat under the stars. Whether you’re a hiker, a history enthusiast, or simply looking to explore off-the-beaten path, this is the place for you!
For us, this was an experience of a life-time. Not only were we visiting South Africa, but we were sleeping in cave in the Drakensberg Mountains… Pretty hard to beat!
If you’re planning a South Africa hike, put hiking in the Drakensberg Mountains on your must-do list. There’s many Drakensberg hiking trails, but do make room in your itinerary for the Pillar Cave hike.
Come for the views, stay for the silence, and leave with memories etched as deeply as the art on the cave walls.
Ready to plan your next adventure? Head over to our Travel Resources page. It’s packed with the booking tools and travel essentials we swear by to make every trip amazing!
In every walk with nature, one receives far more than he seeks.
John Muir
